Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.
The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the family completely shocked.
“I am completely shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.
The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.
However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.
It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.
It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.
A seasoned entrepreneur and business consultant with over a decade of experience in helping startups scale effectively.
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Lori Wilson
Lori Wilson
Lori Wilson
Lori Wilson
Lori Wilson